Bristol-based diver and NAS member Leon R Smith found himself stranded on land recently. Here, he shares his enlightening experience of spending the day in Ilfracombe.

Image: the author Leon R Smith in his natural environment (diving on Robert, Lundy). Photo by Kate Fleming

Historically, the small town of Ilfracombe was the only safe natural harbour on the North Devon coast and located just over 20 nautical miles from Lundy Island in the Bristol Channel

  

Image: Ilfracombe harbour on a rough day. Photo by Leon R Smith.

Recently, the dive boat Barbara B chartered by the Nautical Archaeology Society (NAS) was unable to make that trip safely due to poor weather conditions and we found ourselves stranded for the day. 

 A videoed glimpse into why the conditions wouldn't let us out of the harbour!

Image: Barbara B dive boat at low tide. Photo by Leon R Smith.

Having asked the skipper to 'double-check' (and he having confirmed that was quite certain that the crossing would be ill-advised), we set off first to the nearest pub for a nice cup of tea and a cooked breakfast and then to the nearby Ilfracombe Museum. 

Along the way, we found ourselves caught up in the throng of the 10th annual "Ilfracombe All Things Morris Event" proudly and joyously led by a local dancing troupe of ladies known as the 'Ilfracombe Red Petticoats'.  Despite this being helpfully embroidered on their titularly colour-coordinated clobber, it was noticed that these were jackets rather than skirts. 

 

Image: Morris dancers through the streets of Ilfracombe. Photos by Peta Knott and Leon R Smith.

This was the first - but certainly not the last - of a number of examples of Ilfracombe's curious maritime history explained at the local museum.   

Just passed the Landmark Theatre, the museum is housed in a building which was converted from the laundry of the former Ilfracombe Hotel following its closure in the early 1920s.  Eventually, the rest of the hotel was demolished in 1976 and the museum is now the last remaining element of the previously extensive and impressive 'French Gothic style' structure. 

The museum was first set up in 1932 to house a collection of largely natural history exhibits donated by local residents and curated by Mervyn Grove Palmer who added further more exotic exhibits collected during his times travelling in South America in the early 1900s. 

Since then, the collection has expanded over nearly 100 years.  The presentation has lately been modernised with some added digital visualisations of the former local railway route, a looped video showing the social history of the local area, and an interactive morse-code demonstration station.  However, it retains its significant charm as a local museum originally made by local people, for local people. 

Images: Digital railway display (right) and Chris Birkhead on the interactive morse code display. Photos by Peta Knott

Curios of local natural history include a whole cupboard full of bats in different preserving jars as well as the pickled remains of the two-headed baby goose born at Ilfracombe Zoo in 1956 (which was reportedly considered unusual even by the standards of North Devon at the time). 

 

Images: Ilfracombe Museum: industrial heritage on the left and two-headed baby goose on the right. Photos by Leon R Smith.

Which - albeit quite tangentially - linked to an exhibit of Ilfracombe's extensive maritime history including links to the British Royal Navy vessel the HM Schooner Pickle.  As explained alongside a detailed model of the ship itself, John Richard Lapenotiere (Nelson's Lieutenant at the Battle of Trafalgar and captain of the Pickle) was a resident of the area and became something of a local hero. 

Images: Model of HM Schooner Pickle (left) and portrait of John Richard Lapenotiere (right). Photos by Leon R Smith.

Although the Pickle was not directly engaged in combat herself at the famous battle, she was charged with rescuing stricken seafarers from casualties of that conflict along with securing prisoners of war.  Records hold that she had taken on board some 160 captives including many from the burning wreck of the 74-gun Téméraire-class ship of the line Archille.  With a crew of just 40, she managed to avoid being overrun by damp Frenchmen and ultimately joined the British blockade of Cadiz. 

On 26 October 1805, she was given orders under Lapenotiere to sail for Plymouth with dispatches. 

Despite stormy seas, failed pumps, and gale force winds, followed by becalming, Lapenotiere was eventually landed at Falmouth on 4 November 1805.  From there, he is said to have taken 37 hours to cover 270 miles including 21 changes of horse to reach the Admiralty at around 1 am on 6 November 1805 to announce to William Marsden, the First Secretary of the Admiralty:

          "Sir, we have gained a great victory, but we have lost Lord Nelson". 

The Pickle herself was later lost on 28 July 1808, whilst once again carrying dispatches, having grounded off Cape Santa Maria.  Unlike, Lord Nelson, she was not pickled and returned to England.  Rather, she is said to have sank quickly, but records confirm that all of her crew survived. 

Just beyond the model of the Pickle, in a similar glass cabinet, is the preserved remains of a single tattered red petticoat. 

That scrap of blood-coloured material is supposed to be the last relic of an incident which took place some eight years prior to Lapenotiere's epic journey.  In terms of local history, however, it is no less important and is reported to have played a similarly critical role in the development of Anglo-French relations in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. 

Following the Battle of Fishguard, and the failed attempt by French revolutionaries to invade Britain and Ireland (with the support of the Society of United Irishmen) in February 1797, there remained a real risk of possible further attack.  According to local legend, amidst a climate of fear and suspicion, a French frigate was reportedly seen sailing up the Bristol Channel later that year in November. 

In the absence of any town garrison or local troops, local women are said to have donned their red petticoats over their shoulders to mimic British 'redcoat' forces and to have paraded the area armed with sticks, boating oars, and farming implements, whilst 'beating to quarters' (of sorts) on a fisherman's drum.  The sight was held to have been so daunting that the frigate turned and sailed away! 

The tales of 1797 may have at least some truth but have likely been embellished greatly by local mythos and legend.  However, on Saturday 6 July 2024, the 'Ilfracombe Red Petticoats' certainly did march their way along the coastline of North Devon. 

Not a single French frigate was seen attempting to invade at the time. 

That may have been because the tide was out. 

Or just maybe, after 227 years, the French Navy had again spotted the daunting ladies in red and decided that 'discrétion' would be the better part of 'valeur'? 

Image: divers stranded at Ilfracombe! From left to right: Peta Knott, Sara Hasan, Nick Hassapis, Leon R Smith, Yo-Han Cha, Kate Fleming and Chris Birkhead. Photo by Peta Knott

Visiting the Ilfracome Museum

See www.ilfracombemuseum.co.uk for full details: 

Ilfracome Museum Wilder Road Ilfracombe North Devon EX34 8AF
 01271 863 541 - [email protected]  

Opening times:  Tuesday – Saturday 10am – 5pm

Admission charges:  Adults £5.00, Seniors (over 65 )/concessions (incl. carers) £4.00,  Annual season ticket/supporters from £10.00 a year, Children under 16 free (must be accompanied by an adult)